Caricia Classic Merino has a thousand lives, and today Albita de Plata gives us one more reason to get our hands on this quality yarn. It's called Rooster, and this jacket is your seasonal project if you're looking forward to knitting a versatile garment perfect for adding a special touch to your outfits.

*This pattern is made in size S, but I will explain how to adapt it to ANY SIZE.

 

YOU WILL NEED

Yarn: 300g Caricia Classic Merino (Color 064) + 200g Caricia Classic Merino (Color 063)

 

Needle: 3.5mm

 

 

PATTERN

 

STITCHES USED:

ch: chain

 

sl st: slip stitch

 

h-sl st: half slip stitch

 

sc: single crochet

 

dc: double crochet

 

rooster st: rooster stitch

 

Stitches:

 

 

- Rooster Stitch: a single crochet followed by a double crochet. Repeat this throughout the entire round. In the next round, you'll do the opposite: where you had a single crochet, you'll make a double crochet, and vice versa. It's interesting to do this stitch in two colors to see its final effect, one round of each color, carrying the yarn of the color you're not working with inside the stitches you're making, similar to the Tapestry technique. This stitch always starts the round with sc and ends with dc.

 

- Half Slip Stitch: This stitch is like a slip stitch, but you yarn over before inserting the hook into the stitch. That is, yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, and then pull this last yarn over through both loops on the hook.

 

 

Clarifications:

 

- We will work the garment in one single piece, from sleeve to sleeve. This piece will only need to be sewn on the sides and at the sleeve closure, and the elastic bands added.

 

- The entire main piece will be worked in ROOSTER STITCH. Therefore, it is important that whatever size we are working, we do it in a MULTIPLE OF TWO stitches.

 

- Each round of the main piece begins with 1ch that DOES NOT count as the 1st sc.

 

 

Size adjustment:

 

Since it's a one-piece garment, it's important to have measurements and size adjustments very clear before starting, as it's very difficult to readjust later. In the drawing and table, you can see how much each section of the piece needs to measure according to your size.

 

I recommend writing down each measurement for your size on the drawing, in its corresponding place, so that at a glance you know what and how much you need to knit in each part.

 

 

As you can see in the drawing, the green dot and arrows indicate the beginning and direction of the work. That is, we will start at the cuff, knitting the circumference of the sleeve for as many rounds as we want it to be long, continue with the total length of the jacket for as many rounds as we want it to be wide, and finish by knitting the second sleeve. All in one go, without cutting the yarn.

 

Gauge:

 

Once we know what each part of our main piece needs to measure, it's time to translate that into the stitches and rows we're going to knit. To do this, you just need to make a swatch and calculate how many stitches you need to make to get 10cm and how many rows you need to knit to get 10cm.

 

In my case, using Caricia Classic Merino and a 3.5mm hook, I need 16 stitches to knit 10cm in width and 14 rows for a height of 10cm.

 

If you notice, with this swatch method, you can knit this garment in any material and with any hook simply by adapting the measurements.

 

When you see that a section of fabric needs to measure Xcm, you refer to your swatch and calculate with a rule of three how many rows or stitches you will need to achieve those centimeters.

 

 

Pattern:

 

Now that our measurements are clear, it's time to transfer them to the fabric. In my case, in this step-by-step pattern, I will explain how to knit SIZE S, but you already have the necessary tools to adapt it to your size.

 

Start by making 58 ch (or, if you're making another size, whatever corresponds to your D measurement)

 

R1-R49 (or as many rounds as you need for your C measurement): All rooster stitch

 

R50: knit the 58 normal stitches in rooster stitch, and at the end of the round, before turning the piece, we will make a chain, with the hidden color, of 48 ch (or what is equivalent to measurement E for your size). Total 106 sts.

 

R51: 106 sts in rooster st and, at the end of the round, repeat the final process of the previous round, increasing with a chain of 48 ch in the color we have hidden. Total 154 sts

 

R52: now we go back to normal rows, in my case 154 rooster stitches. In your case, whatever is equivalent to double the A measurement.

 

R53-R83 (or as many rows as you need for your F measurement): 154 rooster stitches

 

R84: only knit 72 rooster stitches, or whatever is equivalent to your A measurement.

 

R85-R97 (or as many rounds as you need for your G measurement): 72 rooster stitches

 

R98: knit the 72 normal stitches in rooster stitch and at the end of the round, before turning the piece, we will make a chain, with the hidden color, of 82 ch.

 

R99-R130: 154 rooster stitches (or what is equivalent to your size for measurement F)

 

R131: 106 rooster stitches (or the equivalent in your size to measurement E+D)

 

R132: 58 rooster stitches (or the equivalent in your size to measurement D)

 

R133-181 (or the equivalent in your size to measurement C): 58 rooster stitches

 

 

We have finished the main piece; now we assemble it into a jacket shape and sew the sides and sleeve closures with a tapestry needle.

 

 

Edges:

 

- We make one round of sc followed by a round of decreases around the cuffs.

 

- On the front edges and bottom, we will make a round of single crochets, making one sc for each side row we encounter (be it sc or dc) and every 6 stitches we make an increase. You can put more or fewer sc on the edge so that it doesn't flare out or shrink.

 

Now we have a base to start the elastic bands.

 

Elastic Bands:

 

We will knit two types of elastic bands: one for the cuffs and another for the rest of the jacket's edges.

 

Sleeve elastic: join yarn in one of the sleeves and make 13ch + 1 turning ch, then work 12 sl st back. In the last ch, pull the yarn through as if to make a sl st, but pick up one more in the stitch where you started the 13 ch. This creates a half slip stitch as the final stitch of the round. Make a sl st in the next stitch of the sleeve base (which we will treat as the turning ch for the next round), turn, and work 13 sl st through the back loop all the way up the elastic band created in the starting ch. Make a turning ch, turn the work, and work downwards, repeating the entire process until you complete the entire circumference of the cuff.

 

Other edges' elastic: join yarn at one of the front corners and make 13ch + 1 turning ch, then work 12 h-sl st back. In the last ch, pull the yarn through as if to make a sl st, but pick up one more in the stitch next to where you started the 13 ch. This creates a half slip stitch as the final stitch of the round. Make a sl st in the next stitch of the sleeve base (which we will treat as the turning ch for the next round), turn, and work 13 sl st through the back loop all the way up the elastic band created in the starting ch. Make a turning ch, turn the work, and work downwards, repeating the entire process until you complete the entire section.

 

We knit the sleeve elastic, then the bottom elastic, and finally the front elastic.

 

Hide ends and finish off.

 

FINAL RESULT